Mangiare Bene

May 2010

Fresh Recipes, New Kitchen Ideas, Food News & Fun Things To Do In Sunny Italy

 

Tiny green pearls cluster olive trees so plentiful,…each day the sea is dotted with just another boat or two,…orange umbrellas now line the sands, and best of all Springtime fruits and vegetables are very plentiful thanks to the heaping rains of Winter. Fava beans, lettuce, artichokes, peas, potatoes, strawberries, and red oranges are already abundant in our garden.

Signore Antonio has taken his hoe and this week planted tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, green beans, pumpkin, basil and all the herbs of spring! Off to the garden we go to pick our organic produce! And this month we add the new ‘Kids Kitchen’ with recipes from Chloe & Siena. Read on for delicious Spring recipes from our kitchen!

Buon Appetito!
Lauren

 

Table Talk

May comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb so the saying goes, and so far, never was a truer word was said. But having got the lion part right, let’s hope the lamb part works out too! May is certainly the month that sees a sizable increase in visitors to Italy, and while the weather might not be summery, it’s not at all bad for those who want to do some walking, trekking or other activities that can be difficult when the temperatures climb. And there are lots of different events to tempt visitors: from the Daffodil Festival in the Abruzzo town of Rocca di Mezzo which has folk dancing and parades to celebrate spring on the last Sunday in May, to La Barabbata, held in Marta on the shores of Lake Bolsena each 15th May, a work festival dedicated to the people who daily work the land and carry forward local artisan skills. Or how about the famous Giro d’Italia, the cycle race that sees all the world’s most prominent athletes compete the length and breadth of Italy, through Alpine passes, past the lagoons of Venice, along the Adriatic Coast and much more besides. And those of a thirstier disposition should make the effort to enjoy the admirable Cantine Aperte event, which during the last weekend in May, involves a great number of Italy’s most important wineries opening their doors to the public and encouraging closer relations between wine producers, locals and tourists. Every region has something to offer, and there’s no better chance to be able to learn more about your favorite labels, how they’re produced and even indulge in a spot of tasting.

Food Notes

What a great month! May has to be one of the high points in any food lover’s book - so much fresh new produce, green everywhere, from new baby lettuce, peas, favas and asparagus to mint, chicory, rocket and wild greens. Menus change in just about every restaurant and trattoria, and tastes are lighter, fresher and more summery. At the market we have our eyes open for the first slender zucchini, flowers attached, perhaps to make some simple grilled, garlic marinated baby zucchini or a delicious risotto perfumed with the season’s fresh mint, and everywhere you turn, the scent of first of the year’s fresh herbs lifts the senses. May, as we point out every year, is one of the best month’s for lamb, the meat flavorsome but tender, but don’t forget to visit the fish market, where you’ll find excellent fresh bream, sardines, cod, crab, sole, salmon and sea bass, most of which need to be cooked very simply and served with new baby potatoes or, in the case of salmon, a quick sorrel sauce or salad. For dessert, there are strawberries and cherries, but for a change, you could make a light batter and deep fry a spray of elder flowers then dust them with sugar - a favorite with children and adults alike.

Fresh spring recipes, - buon appetito!
 

Recipes from our Kitchen

Lemon Bruschetta

Bruschetta, traditionally a poor-man’s food dates back to the 15th century. Day old bread, grilled and rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil then sprinkled with sea salt has taken many versions in each region. In Positano, my version is Bruschetta Limon, the combination of sea salt and lemon zest melt in your mouth!

Slice the bread thinly grill or toast to a golden brown, while hot drizzle the virgin olive oil, top with a generous amount of lemon zest and sprinkle with sea salt. Eat the warm toasted bites or serve along side a spring salad.

Minted Fava Beans

Mint and fava beans go really well together and I’ve even been known to eat leftovers of this dish cold.

Ingredients for 4 people

600g fava beans, shelled weight
50g olive oil or butter
150ml single cream
Handful finely minced fresh mint
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Blanch the broad beans in lightly salted boiling water. If they are baby beans, about a minute will do, a couple of minutes for larger beans. Drain, and pop beans out of their inner shells. Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan, toss beans until they are warmed through and tender, stir in the cream and the mint, simmer for a minute or so then season with salt and pepper. This makes a great accompaniment to lamb and the beans can be mashed slightly with a fork if you want a more rustic effect.

Chilled Strawberry & Rhubarb Dessert

Once you’ve had your fill of fresh strawberries (it can happen!), whip up some of this delicious strawberry and rhubarb sauce and serve it with ice cream, under a crumble topping or, as we suggest, as a chilled dessert.

Ingredients for 4 people

170 g sugar
250g rhubarb, cleaned and chopped
150g strawberries, hulled, cleaned and halved
Grated zest 2 oranges
200g whipping cream
Few chopped pistachio nuts or some crystalized rose petals for decoration

Put the rhubarb, sugar and orange zest into a pan and simmer for about five minutes until the rhubarb begins to soften. Add the strawberries, cook for another 2 or 3 minutes (depends on the size of the strawberries) then take off the heat. Allow to cool. Meanwhile, whip up the cream, place the cold fruit in transparent serving glasses, top with whipped cream and decorate with pistachios or rose petals. (Alternatively, you can form alternating layers of fruit and cream for a prettier effect.)
 

Kids’ Kitchen By Chloe Lucia & Siena Rose

Siena’s Lemonade Pop Cycles

1 bottle of fresh water
6 big yellow Positano lemons
½ cup sugar

1. Washed lemons;
2. A little rest of the lemons;
3. Squeeze the lemons and get their juice;
4. In a big bowls we mixed the water, mix the lemon juice plus the sugar; mix it;
5. Pour it in the pop cycle mold;
6. Freeze it for 3hours for a great afternoon snack.

Information note:

Lemon Pop Cycles are a great spring & summer snack. And they are full of vitamin C and they taste good too!

Chloe Lucia’s Pizza

Make or buy your dough, I like Tre Sorelle’s pizza dough recipe. Spread it out on pizza pan, add diced garlic and oil and maybe even some parsley. Add tomato sauce, put in oven. And some more oil and maybe some fresh tomato too! Top with Mozzarella (during the last moment of baking). Bake at 300 degrees until crispy.

Luigi’s Pizza
Courtesy of Le Tre Sorelle, Positano

1 liter water
1.5 kg flour
30g salt
5g yeast
30g extra virgin olive oil


In a large bowl, mix the yeast in the water until fully dissolved. Add the salt.

Add the flour, a little at a time and start to mix by hand. When you have a smooth and elastic dough, add the oil.

Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours.

Divide the dough into smaller balls, about the size of a fist and work briefly to make into round balls. Cover and leave on a floured surface to rise for about an hour.

Now, your dough is ready (and can be used for the next 5 hours). Flatten the ball into a circle and stretch to form a thin disk. Add toppings as desired.

In a wood-burning oven (about 300 degrees C) cook for about 2 ½ minutes.
In a regular oven (highest temperature 280 degrees C) for about 3 minutes.
 

With Love From Italy...

Parole, Parole, Parole

Book lovers should head to Torino this month (13 - 17th May) for the Turin International Book Fair. Here visitors will find everything from rare first editions, to signed copies of the latest best sellers, and can mingle with many renowned international publishers and authors. Try to catch some of the fascinating discussions, readings and book signing events or even take part in a writing workshop.
www.fieralibro.it

Music In The City Of Art

During the whole of the month of May, visitors to Florence will be spoiled for choice musically, as the Florence Music Festival, one of the oldest and most important music festivals in Europe, will be in full swing. The Teatro Comunale and nearby Piccolo Teatro are at the center of the action, and as well as taking in some wonderful music concerts, there will also be a choice of opera and ballet sessions.
www.maggiofiorentino.com

Walk With Palladio

Anyone wishing to become more familiar with the work of renowned Vicenza architect Andrea Palladio can enjoy guided tours and obtain route suggestions for walks throughout Vicenza and its province. The basic itinerary includes a tour of the town’s historic centre on Saturday afternoon on foot, while some villas and Bassano del Grappa are toured by bus on Sundays. Palladio tours will be available every weekend until 3 October.
www.vicenzae.org

Visit The Holy Shroud

Until May 23rd, the Holy Shroud will once again be on display in the Cathedral of Torino. The shroud was recently visited by Pope Benedict XVI, and for the first time ever, it will be possible to see the Holy Shroud following the intervention it underwent in 2002. New and more detailed information will be provided along the introductory route to the Shroud which, among other things, will also include, in the pre-reading area, super high resolution photographic documents.
www.sindone.org
 

Italian Feasts & Celebrations

We take a look at some great food festivals to suit all tastes this May in Italy.

Sagra della soppressata e festa di S. Benedetta: The Soppressata Sagra held in Monacilioni in the province of Campobasso, Molise, is traditionally held on the third Sunday of May (the 15-16th May this year) and coincides with the town’s celebrations of their Patron Saint, S. Benedetta. The soppressata (roughly speaking, a type of salami) on offer at this sagra is made by local families and is, predictably, much tastier and more genuine than anything you can buy. And at the festival, you’ll also be able to sample local cheeses, biscuits, fresh fava beans and wines.

Sagra del carciofo e dell’olio d’oliva: 15-16th May, Prezza, Province of l’Aquila. It’s just over a year since l’Aquila was devastated by an earthquake, and as we said last year, we firmly believe that the best way to support the people of l’Aquila is to visit their city and their region. So why not head to the town of Perezza for their festival celebrating local artichokes and olive oil? Stalls, talks, debates and an artichoke-rich dinner under the stars make this a great way to spend a weekend. But local women will also be demonstrating how to prepare, cook and preserve artichokes, and there will be special demonstrations and tastings featuring local extra-virgin olive oil.

Festa della Fragola: From 15th - 23rd May in the town of Lagosanto in in the province of Ferrara (Emilia Romagna), you’ll find the 17th edition of this local strawberry festival. This is the area in which Italy’s main strawberry growers are based, and the town is one of Italy’s so called ‘Città delle Fragole’. It’s not difficult to imagine why this festival is such a favorite both with kids and with adults, and visitors will be treated to numerous tasting points where they can sample the area’s delicious strawberries, then head off to visit the many different stands offering every possible type of dish featuring this fruit, from risottos to desserts...Expect to find many of the town’s best chefs engaged in cooking competitions, and enjoy lots of organized walks and talks, live music and firework displays.

Riso e Rose: From 22nd - 23rd May, we’re tempted to head to Mede, Breme and Sartirana Lomellina in the province of Pavia, Lombardia, for the delicious sounding Rice and Roses festival. Local antique dealers and florists will fill piazzas with their wares, local museums will be open, and there will an exceptional photographic exhibition featuring rice, plants and roses. But best of all, head to the Osteria San Rocco for a delicious menu based on, you’ve guessed it, rice and roses. The afternoon concludes with a tasting of cakes made with roses and a prize-giving ceremony for the morning’s Vespa race.
 

Cooking Vacations’ Property Of The Month

The Sicilian Cookbook™
Touring & Tasting With Rising Star Chef ~ 8 Day

Come to Modica and meet Chef Accursio, who leads our southern Sicilian cooking in a unique opportunity to learn traditional recipes with modern touches from a Michelin Star Chef. Discover traditional flavors made with the simple, fresh ingredients grown and produced locally that celebrate the custom of families circled around the table to enjoy moments together.
Your week includes incredible trips around the area to visit a local cheese maker with lunch included to sample the fresh delights, a local vineyard with tasting, visits that will reveal the artisan treasures of the area and of course, visits that will uncover the history and architecture of these ancient cities. So, join Chef Accursio on this gastronomic journey through southern Sicily’s flavors, traditions and life. Read more by clicking here.

Italy On A Plate

By Germaine Stafford

Germaine Stafford gives you her chef of the month, book recommendation, and a list of seasonal foods for May.

What’s in Season?

Lamb
Wood pigeon
Sea Bream
Sardines
John Dory
New potatoes
Rocket
Mint
Chicory
Spinach
Asparagus
Fava beans (broad beans)
Peas
Wild greens
Artichokes
Rhubarb
Strawberries
Cherries
 

Restaurant Of The Month

L’Osteria del Treno, Milano

As most tourists know, it’s disappointingly easy to eat badly in many of Italy’s larger or more touristy destinations. That’s why this month’s choice is a real find. Located just a few blocks away from Milan’s main train station, L’Osteria del Treno makes the perfect lunch stop for those eager to sample some of the area’s more authentic gastronomic offerings. Not only is there a comfortable and welcoming atmosphere, but as early on as the antipasti, the exceptional quality of the ingredients used becomes clear. Much of the produce selected comes from small, local (and not so local) producers, who are often members of the Slow Food Organization. To start you might consider some excellent cold cut platters; duck paté with fruit mostarda; or opt instead for smoked breast of goose. First courses include dishes such as bigoli with anchovies, lasagnette with leeks and speck, tagliolini with three meat ragù, and chickpea soup with goose speck.

Now come the second courses, which we particularly enjoyed on our last visit, with most of us unable to decide if we preferred the warm goat with chestnut honey and pear, the baked cod or the simple but delicious beef tagliata. Also popular were the delicious vegetables, especially the zucchini flan and the Savoy cabbage involtini. Cheeses are a must here, and there are normally about twenty or so on offer, including those made with cow’s milk, sheep’s milk and goat’s milk, and hailing from all over Italy. And then of course dessert, with pear and walnut strudel or chocolate mousse for those with lots of space left, or a seasonal sorbet or pistachio and chili pepper gelato for those who just need to clean their palate. With a great selection of wine available by the glass and surprisingly good prices, l’Osteria del Treno can easily become a favorite stop off in Milan.

Further Information:
L’Osteria del Treno
Via San Giorgio, 46
20124 Milano
Tel: (+39) 02 6700479
 

Book Of The Month

Brunetti’s Cookbook
By Donna Leon

Part of the enjoyment of reading Donna Leon’s Commissario Guido Brunetti novels set in Venice is that enchanting sensation of being whisked away to another world with canals and gondolas, narrow alleyways and atmospheric piazzas. But another element that readers thoroughly enjoy are the mouth-watering descriptions of Venetian food. Yes we are interested in the plots, but we are just as interested in reading about Brunnetti breaking off from his investigations to enjoy a snack or lunch, or simply an aperitivo on his way home for lunch. Then of course there are the meals consumed in Casa Brunetti, where Guido’s wife Paola, a university professor, seems to be ever busy cooking up some delight or another, be it risi e bisi or some simple marinated sardines.

Great news then, that Leon has teamed up with Roberta Pianaro to produce a book of Venetian recipes that reflects the preferences of Brunetti and his family, and also of Leon herself. All of these wonderful meals we’ve been reading about for years come to life in this volume which is beautifully illustrated with vignettes by Tatjana Hauptmann, and enriched by excerpts from the critically-acclaimed novels and a number of original essays by Donna Leon on food and life in Venice. Discover Brunetti's favorite dish (penne rigate), Donna Leon's favorite meal (risotto di zucca), but also a whole host of other Venetian dishes such as squid salad, lasagne with artichoke hearts and prosciutto, risotto with squash blossoms and ginger, rabbit with olives and sausage, and a very tempting sounding apple, lemon, orange, and Grand Marnier cake. Here’s what we think you should do: free up an afternoon to spend in the kitchen, keep a bottle of Prosecco to hand and get ready to create your very own Venetian feast. And you’ll find that whether you’ve decided to cook up some salmon with mushroom and basil, or leg of lamb with potatoes, your home will soon be alive with the scents and tastes of that most wonderful of Italian cities.

For more information on Brunetti’s Cookbook, published by Atlantic Monthly Press, visit www.atlanticmonthlypress.com.